Eskimo roles and rips

Another sporadic update

OK folks, yet again months have passed without a word from me on here.  I really am not much of a blogger, I don’t have that many interesting thoughts to share.

Cut to the chase.  I have a new job in Sydney, so it looks like I will be staying here for a year or so.  It will be my second full time job ever and it finds me after about seven years of freelancing and  general slacking off while traveling N.America.  I really loved the freedom that freelancing gave me and I will probably go back to it again, but for now I am a 9-5 (well, 9-6 actually) salary junky.

I am quite excited about this new job as it is a kind of interesting position, I don’t really have a job title, I am just part of a team that has the ambitious goal of being the best digital agency in Australia.  It’s quite a task and there is a lot of hard work ahead but I don’t think it will be boring.

In other news.  I just had about the best weekend of surf ever.  The waves have been perfect for me here in Manly.  I have been able to catch some bigger waves and feel like I have leveled up in my surf skills.

In attempting to catch bigger waves I have experienced much bigger and kind of scary wipe-outs.  Bigger waved dump you ruthlessly unless you think quick and know where to put your weight on your board.  Too far forward and the board goes nose down and you tumble into the washing machine, too far back and the wave passes you by.  You may think that erring  on the side of caution and putting your weight to the back is best, but missing a wave feels almost as bad as getting dumped by a wave.

I can now reliably stand up on 90% of all the waves I go for and I am thinking about buying a slightly smaller board.  Next week I am going to hire a smaller board to see how I go.

February 24th, 2008 

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  1. 1 jj riley

    liiiiiiiiiittle surfer, little boyeeeee.

  2. 2 Adam

    I’m cathing around 93% these days.

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